Live Show Secrets: The Art of Breyer Collectability

Today on the blog, I'd like to continue de-mystifying things about live showing model horses. You may recall my first post in this series, about what makes a model "LSQ." I was pleased with the reception to that post, as I had always planned on making this a series. There's so much that goes into live showing, and sometimes the information seems overwhelming and hard to find. There's so much that experienced showers take for granted and expect everyone to know. With this series, I hope to make live showing more accessible to new showers, and help experienced showers level up their game. 

Today I'm tackling what we all know is one of my favorite aspects of showing - collectability classes. What makes a winning collectability entry? How do you select an entry? What does your documentation need to have? 

I'm in a uniquely situated position to talk at length about this topic. In addition to my hobby credentials found on my About Me page, my favorite hobby niche is OF Breyer Stablemates collectability. There have been multiple shows where I have received public callouts and documentation awards for the quality of my collectability entries. I don't mean this to sound like a brag - it's a skill I've worked hard to hone, one that I'm proud of, and one that I'd like to share with everyone. 

So, let's dive into it! Like the with the LSQ post, we'll first examine what collectability is - what do judges look for? After that, we'll go through the process of putting together a collectability entry from beginning to end. 

What is Collectability?

My friend and fellow blogger Amanda did a fabulous breakdown of the various non-breed halter classes (including collectability) and what judges look for over on her blog if you're looking for something more in-depth. For now, a brief glossary of terms: 

• Collectability: A model horse class where models are judged based on how collectible they are compared to the other horses on the table. Factors taken into consideration when judging include age, rarity, desirability, condition, and documentation/ephemera.
• Age: It may seem obvious, but how old the model in question is. As models age, they often end up harder to find on the secondhand market, thus making them more collectible. 
• Rarity: How rare the model in question is. Things to look at include how many were made, where they could be purchased or won, if it's a variation of some sort, how likely it was to end up in hobbyist hands, signatures, etc. Essentially, what the model is and what makes it special. 
• Desirability: How desirable a horse is compared to what else is on the table. Things like mold popularity and associated intellectual property tie-ins (like movies) come into play when taking desirability into account. 
• Condition: The condition the model is in. As previously stated in my LSQ post, this can get slightly subjective, and the rarity of an item can absolutely offset condition flaws.
• Documentation: Information identifying who your model is. Collectability documentation is required for a model to be judged for collectability at most shows.
• Ephemera: Part and parcel of documentation is ephemera. These are the extra things that make up your collectability entry. This can range from as simple as the Certificate of Authenticity (COA) and the box or bag that the model came with, up to things like an original sales list, extras from the event the model is from, or additional paperwork.  

This is a very basic overview of the factors that go into collectability judging. Amanda's blog post above goes into far greater detail if you're interested in learning more!

How Do I Select a Model to Show? 

Now that we know what judges are looking for in a collectability entry, let's look at how we select a model to show. Now personally, I have two ways of determining who to bring, and that depends on what the class list looks like. There are two options for showing collectability at a show - either the show has a separate division or section for collectability, or the breed classes are double judged for collectability. 

Everyone's process for selecting models for a show is different. I'll cover my thought process here - and I have two of them! I select models differently based on whether the show is double judged or not. Basically, at a double judged show I try to split my entries - so one strong entry for breed and one strong entry for collectability. Ideally, my entry is good for both breed and collectability, but some horses are just not good breed horses no matter how much you stretch their breed assignment. Selecting for a collectability division is easier, as you generally don't have to anticipate what else is in the class as much - the models will be more on par with each other.

So, what makes a model collectible? Well, we know from the glossary above what judges are looking for: age, rarity, desirability, and condition. Does this mean only the rare models have a chance? Absolutely not! You never know what else will be on the table, and in a single judged collectability division there could even be classes for regular run models to compete against each other. That being said, if there are rarer models on the table, don't be disappointed when your model doesn't place. Collectability has much less room for subjectivity when judging, and numbers do play a large role. 

That's not to say there's not room for subjectivity in collectability classes. Desirability, and to a lesser extent condition are both areas where the judge's own subjectivity comes into play. Every judge weighs these factors differently. Some judges will pick the model with the smallest run size on the table every time. Personally, I don't think that's a great way to determine collectability. Part of what makes something collectible is how much people want it in their collection. If there was say, a one of a kind Khemosabi and a raffle Proud Arabian Mare on the table, I'm placing the Proud Arabian Mare over the Khemosabi, even though there are more of her. If given the choice, most people would want the PAM instead of the Khemosabi.

Condition can also be a subjective factor. I touched on this briefly in the "what makes LSQ" post, but essentially the rarity of a model can act as a counterbalance for issues in condition. Now obviously, things such as broken ears/limbs are a no go. On a sufficiently rare piece, like a complete Proud Arabian Mare with box and hand-tied halter, or the briefly-produced Cantering Stock Horse Stablemate from the playmat set, condition is much less of a consideration because of how hard to find the piece is. 

In summary, any model can be shown for collectability. Common pieces will be more competitive at shows that don't have classes double-judged for breed, as they're more likely to show against comparative pieces. In a double-judged show, it's more likely your regular run and Club models will compete against rarer pieces like raffle models, event models, and even OOAKs. Tailor your models to the type of show you're attending, and don't get discouraged if there are rarer things on the table! 

How Do I Make Documentation? 

Collectability documentation tells a judge what your model is, and why it's collectible. Most importantly, at NAN qualifying shows, it is required to provide collectability documentation for your horse to be judged on collectability. Even the best judge doesn't know everything, and recalling runs on the spot can be difficult, especially in show halls where you may not have great internet reception and can't look things up while you're judging. 

Making documentation is the easiest part of a collectability entry! It doesn't have to be super fancy - in a pinch, you can handwrite your documentation on a note card. I have some examples of documentation I've used, but let's first look at what your documentation should have. 

What to put on your collectability documentation (the non-negotiables): 

• The model's name/model number
• The year(s) it was produced
• How it was obtainable (Regular Run, Web Special, BreyerFest Special Run, etc.)
• The run number if known 
• Is it a variation? (chalky, pearly, etc.)
• Is there something else that makes it special? (Signature, sample, etc.)
• The source for your information (such as Identify Your Breyer or Breyer Horse Ref)

You can also add additional information such as the sculptor or mold number, but these are not required. It's also popular to put a photo of the model on the documentation, but that is not required either. 

If your model has a Certificate of Authenticity, you don't NEED an additional piece of documentation so long as it covers the basics. I usually do create collectability documentation anyway, and put it on the table with the COA. This is mostly just to help me keep track of my show models - I tend to make collectability documentation for everyone, and it gets labeled with their show name on the back. I also just find it easier to have the information readily and easily available for the judge to read on the collectability card, and I treat the COA as a bonus. 

Let's look at examples of how to make collectability documentation. The most accessible way to make collectability documentation is to use a handwritten notecard. I tend to make my documentation for a show well in advance, but sometimes I add a model last minute and don't have the time to print a full page of documentation, or I'm already at the show hall. Handwriting documentation is an easy way to enter a horse for collectability. 

For printed documentation, I've had two formats. My original format used photos from IDYB and was slightly less than the size of a 3"x5" note card. 

I did like the format I used, but the height and length of the card depended on the amount of information I put on it, which I didn't like. So for BreyerFest this past year, I tried a new, standardized format. 

These cards are 2.5"x3.5" and will fit in playing card sleeves. The idea for this format goes to my friend Kelly M. I use Canva to make my documentation, but any similar program like Microsoft Word, Google Docs, or Open Office would work as well. 

If you're on Facebook, my friend Sarah runs a fabulous group called Model Horse Documentation Creation, which is an extremely helpful resource for creating documentation. If you have additional questions or need extra help with your documentation, please feel free to join the group! 

As for who needs collectability documentation, it's whoever you want to show in collectability. If the show has a separate collectability division, all models you enter in that division will need documentation. If the show is double judged with breed, you don't need to have collectability documentation for every horse if you don't want to. That being said, you never know what else will be on the table - sometimes in a smaller class a rarer regular run can get a collectability placing. Personally, I make collectability documentation for all my horses. I find it helpful when picking models up off the table - I just have to look for my documentation to know I've picked up the correct horse!

Keep it simple, keep it small - your judges and fellow showers will appreciate it!

Do I Need to Bring Anything Extra? 

Now that we've looked at how to select a model and how to make your documentation, let's look at what ephemera to bring, and when to bring it. As a reminder, ephemera are the extras that go along with your entry, like COAs, bags, and boxes. 

When bringing ephemera, there are a few things to keep in mind: 

• Table space 
• Judge preference
• Double judged versus a single collectability division 
• The other showers and what they bring
• The quality of the ephemera 

For me, the most important consideration here is table space, especially in Breyer divisions. At some shows, you're already fighting for space for your models, let alone the extras that go with them, particularly in classes that are also judged for breed. In that case, don't bring things like traditional Premier or Vintage Club boxes. They take up too much room on the table, and they don't add enough to your entry to make or break your placings. They're better suited for collectability only divisions, or smaller class sizes. Because double judged classes can have a range of models from regular runs to one of a kinds and raffle models, it's most likely that there will be something to beat your Club model on that large table, and no amount of ephemera will make them competitive. In an all-collectability class, you're much more likely to get like against like, so ephemera makes more of a difference there. 

This is also where knowing what other showers going to the show bring is helpful - if you know you're going to a double judged show with hobbyists who own raffle models, rare Vintage pieces, and one of a kinds where you have Web Specials and Premier Club models, you're better off leaving the larger ephemera pieces at home. 

The only time I've shown my Premier boxes was at an all yellow card show - and it was a small show!

To me, table space takes precedence over nearly all considerations for ephemera. There are cases where the box is especially valuable - think of the touchability and showcase boxes. Kirsten Wellman has an excellent post on boxes that add value. Models mounted on lamps and from the Presentation Collection take up space as well. Boxes that show the model is a sample, or packaging that never made it to production are ephemera I would always bring - they are what make the model more collectible. Boxes for Club models are less so - the collectability factor is more from the horse itself. If the box isn't absolutely necessary for the entry, it might be best to leave it at home.  
 

In a competitive class, no amount of ephemera can make a less rare model win.

Judge preference is something else to consider, and something that takes time to learn. There are some collectability judges who do value seeing the complete package when possible. Equally, there are judges who don't need to see the extras to place the model. This is something you learn with time as you get to know the judges in your region. I've shown under both kinds of judges. This is also where having experienced showers as friends can help - they might have shown under that judge before and know what they like to see!  

That's not to say all ephemera should be left at home. Ephemera can absolutely make a difference in the quality of a collectability entry. Take my Tiki from the Sunshine Celebration in the photo above. Usually when I entered my Tiki, I was also entering my Lone Star Event G2 Rearing Arabian and Saguaro from the Scottsdale Stampede in the same class. While all three have the same run count, Tiki was regularly beaten by the other two (she has a few condition issues). While browsing eBay last year, a listing caught my eye for ephemera from the Sunshine Celebration event and I purchased them immediately. Since I've begun putting those on the table with her, she has NANed nearly every time she's gone out. The extras enhanced her entry and made her more competitive. 

Smaller items like COAs, bags and paperwork are easier ephemera to bring. Models and documentation can partially sit on top of COAs and additional paperwork, and bags can be set between the model and the edge of the table. For most double-judged shows, I usually just bring COAs and paperwork, and boxes if they make a discernable difference. My Collector Club Event Stablemates and models get the associated ephemera from the event if I have it. If I know the judge likes to see the extra items, I'll then bring more associated items like Stablemate Club and Vintage Club boxes, but for the majority of shows I don't bother. This is mostly due to my own personal preference - I kind of hate lugging the larger ephemera to the show hall, and am equally annoyed having to bring it all back to the table for (sometimes multiple) callbacks. 

My white whale collectability piece was the box for the 20th Anniversary Stablemates Commemorative Set. I finally found one from a friend last year. It will probably only ever make it on to a show table for NAN and all-collectability shows due to its sheer size. 

Ephemera is essentially very your-mileage may vary. Some judges like to see it, some judges it matters less. Once you know what the judges you usually show under like to see, you can adjust your entries accordingly. If the ephemera takes up a lot of space, evaluate how much it truly adds to your entry. Often in large, double-judged classes, table space is a very real consideration. If the box is essential to your entry and your model is not new in box, you can always ask the judge if you can set the box on the floor to conserve space in the ring for other people's entries. Your fellow showers will appreciate the consideration!

I hope this helped break down Breyer collectability entries a little bit. If you have any questions, feel free to drop them in the comments and I'll answer them as I see them. 😊